Should we wait a while for them to figure out the final answer?įrom what I am seeing, using a Real Power device requires that the vehicle is stationary as its interface will essentially take-over the throttle in order to maintain AC power within tolerances. Then again, perhaps the EV community might bite as they are known for super cheap-ism to the point where I am starting to see locks appear on outside power outlets and letters to the community in general that state things like: 'No, it is NOT Ok to plug-in your car at while at school.'Īnd while on the topic of marketing, their narrative is all over the place as one statement starts the bottom end power as 20kVA, another statement claims 70kVA, one chart shows 7kW, and another chart shows 12kW. So their marketing department thinks that the EV community will actually believe this? That makes about as much sense as telling the hydrogen vehicle community that it is Ok to use fossil fuels to generate the hydrogen. "The Real Power Chassis-Mounted AC Generator System is the perfect mobile AC Power solution to charge your Electric Vehicle (EV) while in a remote location or while performing covert testing." "Your truck will need at least a diesel engine and an AUTOMATIC transmission with PTO option." There are some lithium power 'generators' available to supply 120v, and it is only a matter of money in terms of which one will power all the goodies. A DC to DC converter should mitigate the vehicle sides risks of charging the lithium bank. One warning about charging a lithium battery bank is to make sure safeguards are in place to eliminate the risk of overheating the alternator or blowing-out its voltage regulator also, will need to make sure that the vehicle battery does not cook. Lithium will suck as much power as the alternator will put-out and get to 100% SOC a *lot* quicker than lead. AGM's will get there a little quicker than wet cells. A huge bank of wet cells will take a loooonnnnggg time to get back up to full charge. Then calculate how long it will take to recharge a depleted battery bank based on the alternator's rating and loss from gauge and length of wiring.Īnother consideration is recharge time based on charge profiles of the battery. When doing the math, make sure to consider that lead batteries only allow use of something like 50% of their amperage rating. For now, ignore the cost of the inverter. Toward looking at getting the 'free' power out of the vehicle's alternator, might consider to calculating how many watts are necessary to power the misc pieces of equipment / toys and then figure out how much of a battery array is required to power that stuff. The motor really did not like that duty much as it was basically a lot of fast idling and barely any load from its perspective. Setup was simple as I hooked a 30A 120v inverter to the truck. I have run a big V8 turbo diesel truck for a few days just to power a fridge at my house and to run a carpet vac at a friend's house after what was left of a hurricane took-out power. The smaller motor in a generator is a perfect size for its load rating. But up-front pricing has this outside of most people's budget.įrom a fuel perspective, it is better to size the motor to the load. Lithium is starting to crack open the door for wider inverter adoption in the trailer / camper community. Adding a larger battery bank is easier on a motorcoach as customers are generally less concerned about operating costs compared to trailer owners, and a big bank of lead is relatively nothing to a bus frame. Seeing as trailers tend to come with allowance for just one or two Group 29 batteries, there is not much energy capacity to go crazy with 120 items. More batteries calls for more weight and cost. One thing to remember is that a greater demand for 120 inverter usage calls for bigger banks of batteries. Another factor for the motorcoach community is that the RV usually comes with allowance for an onboard generator which is able to use all but the last 1/4 tank of the motor's fuel. Motorcoaches have had inverter power as an option for a while, but it really depends on how the thing was built in terms of whether just an outlet or two which gets inverter power, or the whole rig gets power to include the appliances. Have not checked on newer RV's and suspect that they might come with limited inverter supply (maybe one or two outlets) as the currently technology is much more efficient, lighter weight, and less costly than stuff from 20 years ago. Most trailer and camper RV's will need shore or external generator power for the 120 outlets and appliances / utilities.
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